Inform and Inspire

Welcome to Upstate Bouldering, designed around bouldering in the Upstate region of South Carolina. This website is intended to inform the reader of local spots in SC, Western NC and Northeast GA, as well as a blog of my experiences climbing at these great spots. I hope everyone learns of a new place to climb or is inspired to climb somewhere close to them. If you have any comments, please send me an e-mail.

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Friday, March 15, 2013

Trail Day Rescheduled For APRIL 6TH!!!

Due to inclement weather, the previous trail day has been rescheduled for April 6th!  We are pretty much sticking to the same agenda that I posted in the previous post.  For the most up to date info or to get answers to any questions you might have, please check out the Facebook event page...see you there!!! 

Friday, February 22, 2013

Winter Bouldering BLOWOUT!!!

The Winter Blowout is coming soon!!! If you've ever wanted to check out the prime boulders in the Jocassee Gorges, then you don't want to miss this!!!



We are having the late winter/early spring clean up and bouldering event next Saturday...plan to come help out with some spring cleaning of the parking areas for the various boulderfields in the Jocassee Gorges and then stay for some of the best pebble wrastlin in the state!  Here is a link to the event on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/#!/events/380442348720956/), and below is the lowdown from Stephen Scoff...

Please join us in the Jocassee Gorges on March 2nd and 3rd for some quick and easy community service (a couple hours of trash pickup at parking pullouts) and a healthy dose of SC block action.

WHERE: Intersection of SC 178 and SC 11. (Holly Springs Grocery: In the gravel lot right of the store)

WHEN: Saturday March 2 @ 8:30 AM (If you are unable make this time let me know and we’ll make some arrangements)

FREE CAMPING!: Courtesy of One With The Ride
2640 Crowe Creek Rd Sunset, SC 29685
864-868-2040

If interested please let me know or feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Thanks,

Stephen Scoff
SC Rep
Carolina Climbers’ Coalition

If you missed the BIG Jocassee Gorges Trail Day back in December, then stop kicking yourself for being such a loser and make it out to this one.  With the daffodils blooming and buds on the trees popping, the prime SC bouldering season is quickly coming to a close...take advantage of this great opportunity to climb some new stuff with a great crew of psyched boulderers!!!   Come on out, pitch in with some community service, reward yourself with some fantastic bouldering, and enjoy relaxing with like minded folks around the bonfire!  If you have any questions, feel free to contact Stephen or myself through e-mail or post your concerns on the Facebook event page for quickest response.  Hope to see a lot of familiar faces and new ones just the same!


Friday, January 18, 2013

The Upstate Bouldering Guide...Where Your Donations Have Gone!!!

Now that the Upstate Bouldering Guide has sold out, I wanted to give everyone an idea of what the guidebook has done for local bouldering so far...

I originally had planned on releasing this guidebook as a fundraiser to help pay off the Rumbling Bald Boulders purchase that the CCC made a few years ago.  As soon as I got the book close to printing, this loan was paid off and the need to raise fund for these boulders wasn't necessary anymore...so I decided to reinvest the profits from the guidebook directly into the resources and management of the resource directly.  Because the book was mainly about areas in the Jocassee Gorges of South Carolina, I felt that most of the efforts from the book should be focused on SC, but because it also gave beta to 2 other great boulderfields in Western North Carolina, I wanted to make sure to support these areas too.  I've always had the belief that if you can donate money to a cause, that's great, but if you can donate something more or directly affect your cause with that same money, then that's even better!  So, instead of simply donating the profits from the guidebook to the CCC and that money not necessarily going directly to the areas the guidebook focuses on, I decided to take action with the money that would directly effect these bouldering areas.  I supported several trail days in SC and NC with the profits by helping to organize and fund the trail day (trash bags, bottled water, snacks, food for workers the night before, libations to enjoy after the hard work, etc), donating guidebooks or other climbing related goods for silent auctions and raffles, and finally by providing monetary donations directly to the trail day event, that was then funneled to the CCC.  I can truly say that by doing and not just giving, I gained so much more of a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction with this project than I originally thought I'd achieve!!! 

And that brings me to the major point of this post...and explanation of how the sales of this guidebook have helped support bouldering access in the Jocassee Gorges and in Pisgah. I don't want to go into all of the sticky details of costs, profits, donations etc involved with this guidebook, but I did want to give the readers and followers of this website an idea of where and how the profits for the guidebook were used to help access...I like to know where my money goes when I make a donation to a cause, and I'm sure y'all probably do too.

Costs:
Printing a guidebook is not an easy task, nor is it very profitable!!!  The total cost of the 75 copy (15 color and 60 black and white) print run and shipping to get the books to me was around $1000. 

Profit Margin:
Because I self published I knew that my profit margins would be low, so I only marked the books up the minimal amount I could so they would sell for the cheapest price to those that bought one. The profit margin on the color books were very low because they cost SO much to print, so I only made $5 a book on these.  The black and white copies had a better profit margin at around $10 per book to consumers, and $5 per book for those sold to outfitters.

Total Profits:
Because I set the profit margin pretty low to guarantee the books would sell and actually make some sort of effect on local bouldering, I didn't make as much as many authors might make.  I made around $500 from the sell of the books and $300 by providing advertising to those interested in donating also...so in total, I made around $800 in profit from the sell of the guidebook.  This wasn't an overwhelmingly big amount, but this was more than would have been made if the book had never been published in the first place!  So I was pretty satisfied to realize this profit and be able to slowly donate most of it to the many events that have been held in our local region over the last year and a half!!!

Where the donations have gone so far:
Before the guidebook was available, I went ahead and donated $175 to the 2011 WNC Climbers Weekend/Looking Glass Adopt A Crag, late September 2011, which supported the approaches to many of the boulders around the base of Looking Glass. A couple of months after the Looking Glass Adopt A Crag, in December 2012, I helped support the first ever Table Rock Adopt A Crag Trail Day with donations and other support in the amount of $100. Soon after the book came out in March 2012, I donated to the first ever Jocassee Gorges Bouldering Trail Day by providing around $100 in support to make it happen! The next event I donated to was the Pisgah Climbing Festival in November 2012, in which I donated items for the silent auction and an extra 5 copies of the guidebook were sold there that in total raised around $200 for the CCC at the Festival. Hot on the heels of the Pisgah Climbing Festival was the showing of Reel Rock 7 in Brevard NC. I wasn't able to attend the event, but still wanted to help out, so I donated $50 worth of books for the silent auction. The most recent event I donated to was the very successful second Jocassee Gorges Bouldering Trail Day last month, December 2012. For this event, I donated and supplied around $100 to make sure it was the most effective trail day we could of had. So the tally so far looks something like this...

Donations from the profits of the Upstate Bouldering Guide to local bouldering and the CCC so far:

-WNC Climbers Weekend                                                              $175
-Table Rock AOC                                                                           $100
-Jocassee Gorges Bouldering Trail Day March 2012                      $100
-Pisgah Climbing Festival                                                              $200
-Reel Rock 7                                                                                     $50
-Jocassee Gorges Bouldering Trail Day December 2012                 $100
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Total Donations                                                                               $725!!!!!!!

I was really hoping the sale of the guidebook would generate at least $1000 for local access and the CCC, so I plan on donating $250 to the CCC here soon to fulfill this dream and make it a reality:) A giant THANKS to everyone involved with this project, from those that helped develop routes to those that donated for advertising to those outfitters that are carrying the remaining copies of the guidebook and of course those that purchased the guidebook and directly supported local bouldering access...without each and every one of y'all, this incredible project would have never happened!!!


Monday, January 14, 2013

Upstate Bouldering Guide is SOLD OUT!!!


I'm excited to announce that all of the copies of the first edition of the Upstate Bouldering Guide that I received from the printer have SOLD OUT!!!






As I mentioned in a previous post, I wanted to keep the print run limited to minimize possible access issues and to make the book more valuable to the local community.  My original intent was to only produce 25 copies and distribute them directly by mail order only, but some of the local outfitters wanted to carry the book also, so I tripled the print run and had 15 color copies and 60 black and white copies available.  I sold the color copies directly by mail order only, and the black and white copies were sold by mail order or by one of the 3 outfitters that supported local bouldering efforts.  After a few more orders over the holidays, I am now personally sold out of guidebooks...but that doesn't mean that the book isn't still available!!!  If you are in Greenville SC, you can pick up a copy at Sunrift Adventures, if you are near the Jocassee Gorges and the incredible boulderfields (or would like to mail order a copy from them), you can pick up a copy at One With The Ride, and if you're down in Columbia SC, you can pick up a copy at Get Your Gear On I want to sincerely thank these outfitters for carrying the guidebook and making it available to more folks than those that just follow this website...you guys have been instrumental in helping raise money that has and will continue to help out bouldering access in the Jocassee Gorges and Pisgah National Forest!!!  Later this week, I'll be posting a summary of the details of the profits made from the guidebook and where exactly the money was spent to improve local bouldering access!!! I also want to give a big shout out once more to the other sponsors and supporters of the guidebook...you guys helped make this a reality and your support has directly improved access and relations with land managers, which is the heart and soul of local bouldering!!!  Thanks again goes out to...














Because of a change in pricing in the print process, there will most likely not be a second print run of this first edition guidebook.  I havent begun working on a second edition to the guidebook yet, but imagine in a few years there will be plenty of new areas and routes to add to the guide and talks of a second edition will begin to pop up.  If you have anything you would like to add to the second edition of the guidebook, or suggestions to make it better, please get in touch.

Friday, December 14, 2012

Jocassee Gorges Trail Day Write Up!

Work has taken all of my efforts lately...and when I get a chance to escape, I have been focusing a lot my attention on developing some new bouldering areas in the Jocassee Gorges instead of typing .  I'm psyched to report that the local crew has discovered a couple of new areas and about 25-30 problems have been established at each...and there are more new areas that are just now getting attention!  Since the beginning of the Fall bouldering season, there have been around 100 new routes established in new areas, as well as in some of the more traditional boulder fields...thanks to everyone involved with development (George Evans and Chris Neal especially) and their vision for these new routes, its been a ton of fun bouldering with both of you this season!!!

Now as for the Jocassee Gorges Bouldering Trail Day , here is a quick write up from Stephen Scoff...


The Little Trail Day That Could



Despite some unexpected and steep competition, the Jocassee Gorges’ trail day was well attended and hugely successful! With around 120 hours of man power volunteered, over three miles of trails improved, steps installed, and over $200 raised for the Carolina Climbers’ Coalition!

A BIG hand for all the volunteers! Thank you so much giving up your weekend day to give back. Salud!

...

I also would greatly like to thank:

1. South Carolina Department of Natural Resources

2. One With the Ride

3. Get Your Gear On

4. Vision Climbing

5. Bee Hive Climbing

6. Christopher Neal

7. Matt Riley of Riles Images

8. Dark Corner Distillery

9. Joseph Scarlett DJ Extraordinaire

10. Moms, Wives, and Girl Friends (Yummy Dinner!)

And of Course: Brad, Katy, and Lilly Caldwell


Here are some of Matt’s pictures and a short video clip.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/rileyup/sets/72157632166503496/show/




Here is another video clip from Joseph Scarlett



We’ll do it again next year: and we’ll be taking it to the next level!

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Jocassee Gorges Bouldering Trail Day-December 1st!!!


The upcoming Jocassee Gorges Bouldering Trail Day is going to be here before you know it!!!  We have been putting together a big shindig to get everyone excited and offer a little something to everyone for coming out and helping clean up some of the trails used to approach some of the best bouldering in South Carolina.  Below is the tentative schedule with as much details as we have so far...

8am: Meet at Holly Springs Grocery, the gas station at the junction of Highway 11 and Highway 178 about 5 minutes west of Table Rock State Park.  We will split into a few groups and then drive to the nearby trails and hopefully begin work on the trails no later than 8:30.  If you happen to get there later than 8am, please e-mail me (upstatebouldering@hotmail.com) and I will give you directions on where to meet us after we have started the trail work.  Please don't forget to wear appropriate clothes and shoes and bring equipment for the trail day (gloves, pruners, shovels, saws...we do need at least one chainsaw, picks, etc) along with your own lunch and water you will need while out on the trail for the day.

12noon-1pm:Finish trail work and end up in the boulderfields.  Start bouldering immediately after the trail work is finished.  We will collect pads and gear at 8am when we meet at the gas station and have them shuttled to a pick up spot near the boulders at this time, so you don't have to do trail work with your pad and shoes on your back.

1pm-Dark: Boulder until your forearms and fingertips scream..."NO MORE!!!":)  There will be a few locals that are very familiar with the boulderfields there to point out problems in all grade ranges and make sure that you get on the most classic routes in your grade range!

Dark (about 6-6:30pm):  Hike out and drive down the road to One With The Ride for the evening festivities!!!  One With The Ride (onewiththeride.com) has graciously donated their land for us to camp on...we will have some sort veggie and non-veggie choices for dinner, followed by a slideshow/video of local bouldering and a sweet full length bouldering flick after that!!!  While all of this is going on, we will have a slackline set up, One With The Ride has a bouldering wall you can climb on, as well as, an awesome mini-ramp (bring your own skateboard or bike) and a BMX jump track!!! There will be a silent auction to benefit the Carolina Climbers Coalition with some great prizes to bid on...including the LAST COPIES OF THE UPSTATE BOULDERING GUIDE (theres only 7 left and the next print run will be a few years out...if you want one before the trail day, don't forget to order one by using the link out to the upper left), and a color and black and white copy of my personal journal/guidebook (about 600 routes) of the Bearfields and Jedi Boulders, which we will be focusing on during this trail day.  There have only been 2 other copies of this guidebook available to the general public, EVER, and they will NEVER be available again for purchase...so come out and bid big to own this ULTRA-LIMITED GUIDEBOOK!!!  So please make sure to bring PLENTY of cash to get some goodies and help out the CCC too!!!

SO let me sum this up for everyone...show up at 8am and plan on camping Saturday.  Trail work for half of the day and bouldering in some incredible boulders for the other half of the day.  After bouldering, enjoy the post boulder session food, camping, videos, bouldering movie, slacklining, bouldering wall, skateboarding, biking, silent auction and just all around good fun hanging out with other boulderers.  I'm sure there will be some folks heading back out into the boulders on Sunday too...so plan on camping and getting another big boulder session in before you head back home! 

If anyone had any questions or concerns, please drop me an e-mail at UpstateBouldering@hotmail.com



Thursday, October 18, 2012

Upcoming Events Near Upstate Bouldering! October 20th, November 2nd-4th and the BIG ONE on December 1st!

There are a few super fun upcoming events near the bouldering in the Upstate of SC...check it all out and enjoy the most that the area has to offer!!!

One With The Ride is having a pre-Halloween Jam, on Saturday October 20th starting at 2pm, that includes skateboarding on the mini-ramp/half pipe, biking on the new dirt jump course, bouldering on their new bouldering wall (and boulders only 5 minutes away), music and the possibility of camping!  This is a great way to meet the newest supporter of the upstate bouldering community, do some local bouldering and spend the evening having fun before you camp out and get up to boulder again the next morning!!! Here is a link to their webpage and a link to the Facebook post with information about the event. I'll be around the boulders on Saturday morning if anyone is in town and wants to tag along on a session before the festivities begin...drop me a post or message here or on the Upstate Bouldering Facebook page:)



The Pisgah Climbing Festival is November 2nd-4th and is sure to be an incredibly good weekend in the mountains!!!  To register, click here and go ahead and reserve your spot at this awesome event!!!  For more info on the Facebook page for the event, click here.  Here is a little more about the event and what to expect...

1st Ever Pisgah Climbing Festival. Come join us for a weekend of climbing and fun. Mandatory $10 Donation will get you:


Climbing
Fundraising
Silent Auctions
Slideshows
Guidebook Signings
Camping
Food
Drinking
Etc.

Directions:
From Asheville, take State Highway 280 south to Brevard. At the junction of U.S. Highway 276/64/280, follow Highway 64 west through Brevard to Cathy's Creek Road/Forest Road 471. Take a right and go 1.25 miles to campground entrance.

Sponsors:
Looking Glass Outfitters
Upstate Bouldering
Brevard Rock Gym
Cobourn, Sabley and Associates
ReGear Outdoors
Vision Climbing Holds
Misty Mountain Threadworks
Brad and Mike Reardon with the New Cedar Rock Climbing Guidebook
Barndoor Climbing Holds
American Alpine Club
Ron Gulden


Last but definitely not least is the 2nd annual Jocassee Gorges Bouldering Trail Day coming on December 1st!!!  Folks, this is going to be a BIG event...we're rolling out some new boulderfields containing some of the best boulder problems in SC!!!  Make sure you make plans to be at this event because this will be the only time to see a guidebook to these "new" areas and I'll be there to give everyone and anyone a tour of the area classics:)  Stephen Scoff is getting all of the details wrapped up, but you can be assured that there will be free camping available for those that want to stay, food, libations and a great time with like minded boulderers...click here to see the link to the event on Facebook. You can guarantee that there will be a lot more information coming out as soon as its available about this event, so stay tuned to Upstate Bouldering for all of the details!!!

If you cant make it out to one of these events, make sure that you find an event near you to enjoy and hang out with fellow climbers and boulderers!!!

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Rumbling Bald: Easy Circuits


The temps are starting to fall and the friction is getting stickier...especially at Rumbling Bald in North Carolina!!!  Rumbling Bald has been one of my favorite boulderfields for over 10 years...I dont get to visit a few times a week nowadays like a did back when I first started bouldering there, but everytime I get to grope that perfect granite, a HUGE smile always ends up on my face!  The Bald is notorious for tough grades and tough problems, and sends many boulderers home humbled...especially if they're used to the soft grades at the southeast's sandstone boulderfields like LRC, HP40, Rocktown and Lilly.  Before the guidebook came out in 2007, the boulderfields were much more silent and peaceful, with only the dedicated boulderers heading out to climb, but nowadays the boulderfields are chocked full of more and more boulderers. 

I consistently hear from beginner boulderers that the Bald is too hard and that they don't have fun there because they can't send the same grades they do in the gym or at other boulderfields.  I've always had the opposite opinion...the lower grades at the Bald have some phenomenal climbs, some just as classic as the harder classics!  Over the years, I've been able to send all of the V0's, V1's, V2's and most of the V3's at the Bald and have found so many awesome climbs that some folks know about and some that other have never heard of.

In this post, I wanted to list my favorite easy problems from the Bald in hopes that beginners can use this to guide them to some of the better problems in the boulderfield.  I stuck mainly to V0-V2 problems, but I have listed a few of my favorite V3's too (I mean come on Shady Grove and Slave Driver would be mega classics no matter what boulderfield they were in!!!).  Its easy to use this list with the guidebook to find your way around the best easy problems, and its a lot of fun to link 20-40 of these together in a circuit and try to send them all in the same day...one of my favorite ways to enjoy the Bald when I'm not working on a project! 

I used the Rumbling Bald Bouldering Guidebook as the main reference for this list, and routes are simply listed with the number and letter used in the guidebook, instead of using the names for the problems.  I think there is a pretty fun list of problems for both the West and East Boulders and enough easy problems for complete newbies to enjoy their first boulder session at the Bald or first ever outdoor boulder session.  There is a great support website for the guidebook that Chris Dorrity has made and maintains, that list new problems, grade changes, beta for problems you're having trouble on and much more...if you have checked it out, click on over and get oriented to the info that will show up in the next edition of the guidebook. Enjoy crushing!!!

Easy Problems At Rumbling Bald:

West Boulders:


Obscure Area:

-Teardrop Boulder: 6a V0, 6b V1, 6c V2, 6d V2, 6d1 V1, 6d2 V2

-Egg Boulder: 4d V0, 4e V1, 4f V1

-Skinny and the Beast:* 3f V1 and slab to the left of it is a V0



Trailside Area:

-7f V0, 7g V0, 7i V1 and other V1’s to the left of this are great, but highballs for most

-8a V0, 8b V0, 8c V1

-10a V0, 10b V1, 10f V2, 10g V3, 10l V0, 10m V0 (there are now several more V0-V1’s on the same boulder as 10m

-11d V1, *11f V1, *11g V1

-14a V2, 14b V2, *14d V2, 14j V0, 14k V0

-15c V2, *15e V2

-16a V0, *16b V2, 16d V1



Hull Area:

-20a V2, *20b V3

-23a V2, 23b V2, *23c V3, *23e V2, *23f V1, *23g V3, 23h V1



Cluster Area:

-28a V2, *28c V3, 29h V2

-*30a V3

-*31a V2

-36b V1, 36d V1

-38a V0, *38b V1

-*39a V3, *39b V1, *39c V1, *39d V1, 39e V2



Washing Machine Area:

-40a V0, *40b V0,* 40b1 V1, *40b2 V0, 40g V0



Terraces Area:

-49a V0, 49b V0

-*50b V3

-56a V0, 56b V2, 56c V0

-*59a V2





Central Boulders:

-6a V1, 6g V0, 6h V2, 6k V2

-7b V2, *7c V2





East Boulders:


Breakfast Area:

-*1a V2, 1b V1, 1e V1, 1f V0, 1g V0, 1h V0

-2a V2, 2c V1, 2d V1, 2e V0, 2f V2, 2g V1, 2h V1, 2i V2

-4d V0, 2e V2

-5d V0, 5e V0

-9a V1, 9b V2,

-14a V0



Politician Area:

-17a V0, *17c V2, 17c V0

-*20a V2, 20b V2, 20c V2, 20d V2



Slave Driver Area:

-25a V2, ***25b V3/4, 25e V1

-26a V2, 26c V1

-*29f V1, *29g V1

-34b V2, 34c V1, 34d V0, 34e V2, 34f V1, 34g V1, 34k V1



Southeast Area:

-41a V2, *41b V3

-46a V1, 46b V0

-48a V1, 48b V2



Cereal Buttress Area:

-52a V0, 52b V2, 52c V3

-58c V2, 58d V2, 58e V1



Middle East Area:

-*75a V0, 75b V3, 75c V0, 75d V1, 75e V0



Far East Area:

-76a V0, ***76b V4

-81a V2, 81b V2, 81b1 V1, *81c V2, 81d V2, 81e V1

-82a V0

-*83c V0, 83c1 V2

-85c V2

-86a V0, 86b V0, 86b1 V1, 86c V0, 86d V1

-88e V2 There are a couple of new problems listed on the Rumbling Bald website on this boulder worth climbing

-90a V1, *90b V2, *90c V2, 90g V0 (listed as V2 but downgraded)